A Tale of Two Kings

Gladys led us from church along streets with cable cars, diners, bars and shops on the way back downtown. We got out to take pictures and ducked into a local coffee shop. We discussed our predicament: now there was not enough time to see the National Civil Rights Museum and Graceland. Would it be the King of Rock and Roll or Martin Luther King , Jr.? Without hesitation, we decided that although “50 million fans can’t be wrong”, their numbers can't compare to the billions, worldwide, who have fought, struggled and died for independence, equality, and Civil Rights throughout history. Sorry, Elvis, maybe next time.

Martin Luther King, Jr. was standing on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel, right in front of his room, #306, when he was shot and killed. That motel now houses the National Civil Rights Museum and includes the dormitory building that is located across the street where the shot was fired. Those rooms in the hotel and the dormitory have been preserved as they were on August 4, 1968. We were not prepared for how impactful this visit would be. It is difficult to describe the emotions experienced as we walked through the exhibits and read of the struggles that have existed since the birth of our country. All at once, we were overcome by the shock, horror, and shame of our country's past transgressions. Yet, we were also encouraged, uplifted, and inspired by the triumphs of so many freedom fighters, both Black and White. You are forced to realize how fresh these wounds really are in light of the fact that little time has passed since the 1960s. Some of the most heart-wrenching were the videos of sit-ins, interviews and marches from our own home in the DC area. We do not believe there is a person alive today who would not benefit from the experience of this museum-- to see where we have come from and how far we have yet to go.

Around the corner, we stopped into Ernestine and Hazel’s for a soul burger and chips. Keenan was our bartender, cook and host, who shared with us the rich history of this famous little joint and gave us a tour of the place. The old sundry store still houses the original shelves that held Johnson’s Aspirin, and hand-written menus are displayed from when it was a restaurant. Currently, there are two extra bars out back and one upstairs, which used to be a hotel/ brothel. The location has hosted many of the Blues masters. It has also been featured in several movies, one of which is among our favorites...Elizabethtown. Live jazz was to start at 8 pm, but we had to keep moving south toward New Orleans.